Choose different varieties to prevent common problem, says K-State expert

K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the common problem of tomatoes cracking can be solved by scheduling watering or choosing different varieties.

K-State Research and Extension news service

Home gardeners face the problem of tomato cracking, or hard cracks on the upper part of the fruit, usually spanning from or around the stem.

While the cracks do not necessarily ruin the tomato, they are unsightly, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.

“Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous, and is quite efficient in picking up water,” she said. “Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant.”

Domenghini said cracking early in the season is likely related to the top growth of the tomato, which can then result in blossom-end rot when the weather turns hot and dry. Later in the season, cracking may be caused by a sudden abundance of water after a long dry spell.

How can cracking be prevented? Domenghini suggests consistent watering and mulching. Scheduled watering will prevent a quick influx of water likely to cause cracking. Additionally, mulching will help moderate moisture levels in the soil.

Some gardeners may be already following these recommendations and doing everything right, and still end up with tomato cracking. Faculty in K-State’s Department of Horticulture evaluated different tomato varieties over several years to try and come up with the most crack-resistant tomato.

“The difference seems to be the pliability of the skin rather than thickness; the more pliable the skin, the more resistance to cracking,” Domenghini said. “The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack-resistant of any we have tested, including the newer types.”

Unfortunately, Domenghini noted, Jet Star is a variety that can put out rampant, uncontrolled growth. Of the newer, more attractive varieties, Domenghini said the Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina, and Sun Leaper varieties had good resistance to cracking.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu">cdom@ksu.edu</a>,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/6/1718985074432.jpg" alt="tomatoes, vegetables, fresh" />
 <figcaption>tomatoes, vegetables, fresh</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Choose different varieties to prevent common problem, says K-State expert</h2>K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the common problem of tomatoes cracking can be solved by scheduling watering or choosing different varieties.K-State Research and Extension news serviceHome gardeners face the problem of tomato cracking, or hard cracks on the upper part of the fruit, usually spanning from or around the stem.While the cracks do not necessarily ruin the tomato, they are unsightly, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.“Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous, and is quite efficient in picking up water,” she said. “Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant.”Domenghini said cracking early in the season is likely related to the top growth of the tomato, which can then result in blossom-end rot when the weather turns hot and dry. Later in the season, cracking may be caused by a sudden abundance of water after a long dry spell.How can cracking be prevented? Domenghini suggests consistent watering and mulching. Scheduled watering will prevent a quick influx of water likely to cause cracking. Additionally, mulching will help moderate moisture levels in the soil.Some gardeners may be already following these recommendations and doing everything right, and still end up with tomato cracking. Faculty in K-State’s Department of Horticulture evaluated different tomato varieties over several years to try and come up with the most crack-resistant tomato.“The difference seems to be the pliability of the skin rather than thickness; the more pliable the skin, the more resistance to cracking,” Domenghini said. “The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack-resistant of any we have tested, including the newer types.”Unfortunately, Domenghini noted, Jet Star is a variety that can put out rampant, uncontrolled growth. Of the newer, more attractive varieties, Domenghini said the Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina, and Sun Leaper varieties had good resistance to cracking.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu">cdom@ksu.edu</a>,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE answers the question — is tomato cracking  preventable? 

While they may be a more common pest in garbage, raccoons also target the home garden. Ever-so-clever, it seems as though racoons harvest sweet corn right before it is to be picked.

Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says fencing may be the best way to prevent raccoons from stealing the year’s harvest.

To install electric fencing, use two or more wires, the first about five inches above the ground and the second four inches above the first (or nine inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

Fence posts and insulators used for electric fences work well for this application.

“It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year,” Domenghini said.

Domenghini suggests using battery operated fencing rather than plug-ins.

“Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage,” Domenghini said.

She encourages weed control around the wire to prevent them from intercepting the voltage.

READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/42c272c9-264b-4518-95cd-9b37f9bf3c0a">SFD launches lifesaving Safe Haven Baby Box initiative</a>

Kennel fencing can also be an alternative protection from raccoons.

“Make sure that the panels are tied together well enough that raccoons can’t squeeze through corners,” Domenghini said.

A covering over the top may be needed if the raccoons figure out how to climb the panels.

Welded garden fence can work well for this.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can subscribe to the newsletter, as well as submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:Cdom@ksu.edu">Cdom@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/6/1718831025726.jpeg" alt="Protecting sweet corn from raccoons. K-State horticulture expert shares tips for raccoon control. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Protecting sweet corn from raccoons. K-State horticulture expert shares tips for raccoon control. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension news serviceWhile they may be a more common pest in garbage, raccoons also target the home garden. Ever-so-clever, it seems as though racoons harvest sweet corn right before it is to be picked.Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says fencing may be the best way to prevent raccoons from stealing the year’s harvest.Electric FencingTo install electric fencing, use two or more wires, the first about five inches above the ground and the second four inches above the first (or nine inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.Fence posts and insulators used for electric fences work well for this application.“It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year,” Domenghini said.Domenghini suggests using battery operated fencing rather than plug-ins.“Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage,” Domenghini said.She encourages weed control around the wire to prevent them from intercepting the voltage.READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/42c272c9-264b-4518-95cd-9b37f9bf3c0a">SFD launches lifesaving Safe Haven Baby Box initiative</a>Kennel FencingKennel fencing can also be an alternative protection from raccoons.“Make sure that the panels are tied together well enough that raccoons can’t squeeze through corners,” Domenghini said.A covering over the top may be needed if the raccoons figure out how to climb the panels.Welded garden fence can work well for this.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can subscribe to the newsletter, as well as submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:Cdom@ksu.edu">Cdom@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

Raccoons eating your sweet corn? K-State horticulturist shares control tips

K-State horticulture expert outlines treatment options

By K-State Research and Extension News Service

Rose rosette virus and rose blackspot have been reported in several Kansas counties, causing signs of stress on many rose plants this spring.

If you are concerned because your garden’s roses are looking a bit stressed right now, you might not be alone.

Kansas State University horticultural expert Cynthia Domenghini said gardeners in several Kansas counties are reporting problems with their roses due to the rosette virus or rose blackspot.

According to Domenghini, the classic symptoms that appear with rose rosette virus include:

⦁‘Witches broom,’ or a clustering of small branches ⦁Branches develop excessive thorns.

⦁Small, deformed, reddish-purple leaves ⦁Certain varieties may develop reddish-purple streaks or blotches on stems and petioles

“Infected plants, including the roots, should be removed and destroyed,” Domenghini said. “Garden tools that come in contact with the plant need to be sterilized to avoid spreading the virus.”

Rose blackspot is a fungal disease that can cause the following symptoms:

⦁ Dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of leaves. Domenghini said usually the lower leaves are usually infected first ⦁ Raised, purple spots on young canes

⦁ Yellowing between spots on infected leaves ⦁ Leaf drop

“Prevention is the best approach for controlling blackspot,” said Domenghini, who recommends purchasing resistant rose cultivars.

Mindful gardeners should also consider watering roses with drip irrigation to avoid splashing water on the leaves, and ensure roses are planted in the sun with good air movement.

“Don’t crowd plants together in a planting,” Domenghini said. “Diseased leaves should be removed from the ground, and infected plant parts should be pruned out of the plant.”

For those gardeners who choose to apply fungicide, Domenghini suggests treating the plants on a 10-14 day schedule. Some recommended fungicides include tebuconazole, myclobutanil, triticonazole or chlorothalonil.

“As always, follow all label instructions carefully,” Domenghini said.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;Horticulture Newsletter&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;view online&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

How do I get rid of poison ivy growing around my roses?

Individual sensitivity to plant toxins varies; cover arms and legs when handling the plants. When poison ivy plants are growing among desired plants, herbicide treatment may not be ideal due to the risk of overspray and drift. When the soil is wet, use gloves and pull or dig young plants out of the soil.

Large vines can be cut at the base. Treat the remaining stumps with herbicide, including those with the following active ingredients: triclopyr, glyphosate, 2,4-D and dicamba. A second treatment may be necessary. Always follow label instructions.

Cynthia Domenghini, Kansas State University horticultural expert,&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/6/1717768836133.jpeg" alt="Rose blackspot is a fungal disease that can cause dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surfaces of leaves. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Rose blackspot is a fungal disease that can cause dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surfaces of leaves. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State horticulture expert outlines treatment options</h2>By K-State Research and Extension News ServiceRose rosette virus and rose blackspot have been reported in several Kansas counties, causing signs of stress on many rose plants this spring.If you are concerned because your garden’s roses are looking a bit stressed right now, you might not be alone.Kansas State University horticultural expert Cynthia Domenghini said gardeners in several Kansas counties are reporting problems with their roses due to the rosette virus or rose blackspot.According to Domenghini, the classic symptoms that appear with rose rosette virus include:⦁ Rapid elongation of a new shoot⦁‘Witches broom,’ or a clustering of small branches ⦁Branches develop excessive thorns. ⦁Small, deformed, reddish-purple leaves ⦁Certain varieties may develop reddish-purple streaks or blotches on stems and petioles⦁Plant death“Infected plants, including the roots, should be removed and destroyed,” Domenghini said. “Garden tools that come in contact with the plant need to be sterilized to avoid spreading the virus.”Rose blackspot is a fungal disease that can cause the following symptoms:⦁ Dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of leaves. Domenghini said usually the lower leaves are usually infected first ⦁ Raised, purple spots on young canes⦁ Yellowing between spots on infected leaves ⦁ Leaf drop“Prevention is the best approach for controlling blackspot,” said Domenghini, who recommends purchasing resistant rose cultivars.Mindful gardeners should also consider watering roses with drip irrigation to avoid splashing water on the leaves, and ensure roses are planted in the sun with good air movement.“Don’t crowd plants together in a planting,” Domenghini said. “Diseased leaves should be removed from the ground, and infected plant parts should be pruned out of the plant.”For those gardeners who choose to apply fungicide, Domenghini suggests treating the plants on a 10-14 day schedule. Some recommended fungicides include tebuconazole, myclobutanil, triticonazole or chlorothalonil. “As always, follow all label instructions carefully,” Domenghini said.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;Horticulture Newsletter&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;view online&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.<h2>Sidebar Question of the Week</h2>How do I get rid of poison ivy growing around my roses?Individual sensitivity to plant toxins varies; cover arms and legs when handling the plants. When poison ivy plants are growing among desired plants, herbicide treatment may not be ideal due to the risk of overspray and drift. When the soil is wet, use gloves and pull or dig young plants out of the soil.Large vines can be cut at the base. Treat the remaining stumps with herbicide, including those with the following active ingredients: triclopyr, glyphosate, 2,4-D and dicamba. A second treatment may be necessary. Always follow label instructions.Cynthia Domenghini, Kansas State University horticultural expert,&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu

Rx for Roses: Gardeners reporting cases of rosette virus, blackspot

K-State horticulture expert shares management tips for homeowners whose trees were damaged by recent storms.

By&nbsp;<a href="mailto:maddy23@ksu.edu">MADDY ROHR </a>K-State Research and Extension news service

Recent storms across the Midwest left many homeowners with damaged trees from heavy wind&nbsp;and rain. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini shares tips to manage storm-damaged trees:

Not all trees should be salvaged.&nbsp;Trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive.

“Trees with so many broken limbs that the structure is altered may best be replaced,” Domenghini said. “Though these trees may produce new growth, they are under such extreme stress they are much more susceptible to diseases/pests and can be dangerous due to increased risk for further breaks.”

Prune broken branches to the next large branch or the trunk. Domenghini cautions against cutting branches flush with the trunk, cut to the collar area where the branch attaches to the trunk.

“Cutting flush to the trunk creates a larger wound that takes longer to heal,” Domenghini said.

Cut back large limbs progressively.&nbsp;The first cut should be made on the underside of the branch about 15 inches away from the trunk. Cut about one-third of the way through the limb.

The second cut should be made on top of the branch but about two inches further away from the trunk, creating an angle when joined with the first cut. This will cause the branch to break away.

The third cut should be made at the collar to remove the resulting stub.

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/5/1714655748355.png" alt="Managing storm-damaged trees K-State expert says not all trees should be salvaged. Storm-damaged trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Managing storm-damaged trees K-State expert says not all trees should be salvaged. Storm-damaged trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State horticulture expert shares management tips for homeowners whose trees were damaged by recent storms.</h2>By&nbsp;<a href="mailto:maddy23@ksu.edu">MADDY ROHR </a>K-State Research and Extension news serviceRecent storms across the Midwest left many homeowners with damaged trees from heavy wind&nbsp;and rain. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini shares tips to manage storm-damaged trees:Not all trees should be salvaged.&nbsp;Trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive.“Trees with so many broken limbs that the structure is altered may best be replaced,” Domenghini said. “Though these trees may produce new growth, they are under such extreme stress they are much more susceptible to diseases/pests and can be dangerous due to increased risk for further breaks.”Prune broken branches to the next large branch or the trunk. Domenghini cautions against cutting branches flush with the trunk, cut to the collar area where the branch attaches to the trunk.“Cutting flush to the trunk creates a larger wound that takes longer to heal,” Domenghini said.Cut back large limbs progressively.&nbsp;The first cut should be made on the underside of the branch about 15 inches away from the trunk. Cut about one-third of the way through the limb.The second cut should be made on top of the branch but about two inches further away from the trunk, creating an angle when joined with the first cut. This will cause the branch to break away.The third cut should be made at the collar to remove the resulting stub.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE — Tips to managing storm damaged trees

Cold temperatures came on quickly in Kansas, and leaves have begun to drop.

While keeping up with leaves every fall is a challenge, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the amount of leaf cover on the ground has an impact on the underlying plants.

“Photosynthesis will be restricted in a lawn covered with a dense layer of leaves, preventing it from storing enough energy to survive winter,” Domenghini said.

Leaves can be added to a compost heap, but Domenghini recommends shredding them first. This can be done by mowing over them on the lawn and collecting them in the mower bag or they can be added directly into the planters.

“Incorporate 2-3 inches of shredded leaves to the soil at a time,” Domenghini said. “This can be repeated until the leaves are gone or the soil is frozen and cannot be worked. Shredded leaves can be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and perennials as well.”

Leaf mulch incorporated into lawns can help prevent weeds from germinating between grass plants. Leaf mulch has not been shown to negatively effect turf quality, color or soil pH, she said.

Shredded leaves can be left on the lawn if they are not too dense, Domenghini adds. As the lawn is mowed, the leaf pieces will fall in between the blades of grass and eventually break down into the soil.

“It may require multiple passes with the lawn mower to get the leaf size small enough. It is also necessary to mow frequently to keep up with the leaf drop,” Domenghini said.

If incorporating leaves into a cool-season lawn, Domenghini said it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall as well. You can mow leaves into a warm-season lawn but wait until late May or early June to fertilize and core-aerate, she said.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1699024029247.png" alt="It’s Fall, and leaves are everywhere KSRE Photo" />
 <figcaption>It’s Fall, and leaves are everywhere KSRE Photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHR KSRECold temperatures came on quickly in Kansas, and leaves have begun to drop.While keeping up with leaves every fall is a challenge, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the amount of leaf cover on the ground has an impact on the underlying plants.“Photosynthesis will be restricted in a lawn covered with a dense layer of leaves, preventing it from storing enough energy to survive winter,” Domenghini said.Leaves can be added to a compost heap, but Domenghini recommends shredding them first. This can be done by mowing over them on the lawn and collecting them in the mower bag or they can be added directly into the planters.“Incorporate 2-3 inches of shredded leaves to the soil at a time,” Domenghini said. “This can be repeated until the leaves are gone or the soil is frozen and cannot be worked. Shredded leaves can be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and perennials as well.”Leaf mulch incorporated into lawns can help prevent weeds from germinating between grass plants. Leaf mulch has not been shown to negatively effect turf quality, color or soil pH, she said.Shredded leaves can be left on the lawn if they are not too dense, Domenghini adds. As the lawn is mowed, the leaf pieces will fall in between the blades of grass and eventually break down into the soil.“It may require multiple passes with the lawn mower to get the leaf size small enough. It is also necessary to mow frequently to keep up with the leaf drop,” Domenghini said.If incorporating leaves into a cool-season lawn, Domenghini said it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall as well. You can mow leaves into a warm-season lawn but wait until late May or early June to fertilize and core-aerate, she said.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

K-State horticulturist offers suggestions for where to put leaves

One remaining chore for fall gardens includes prepping the garden for spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said now is a great time to prepare the soil.&nbsp;

“With drier fall weather, the soil is less likely to clump when it is tilled,” Domenghini said. “Any clumps that do form will break down over the winter as the soil freezes and thaws, leaving behind soil that’s ready to plant in the spring.”&nbsp;

Domenghini said working the soil in the fall also breaks down debris, contributing organic matter back into the garden.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Debris provides a habitat for diseases and insects. Tilling it into the soil disrupts the habitat and prevents pests from overwintering and wreaking havoc on next year’s crops,” she said.&nbsp;

When adding organic matter into the soil, Domenghini suggests following the general rule of incorporating two inches of organic matter to the surface and tilling it in. Leaves and garden waste can be mowed first to cut it into smaller pieces that will break down more quickly.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Well-tilled soil should have pellet-sized particles. Use caution not to over till the soil and turn it into dust,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to&nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1696779655805.png" alt="Soil KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Soil KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHRKSREOne remaining chore for fall gardens includes prepping the garden for spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said now is a great time to prepare the soil.&nbsp;“With drier fall weather, the soil is less likely to clump when it is tilled,” Domenghini said. “Any clumps that do form will break down over the winter as the soil freezes and thaws, leaving behind soil that’s ready to plant in the spring.”&nbsp;Domenghini said working the soil in the fall also breaks down debris, contributing organic matter back into the garden.&nbsp;&nbsp;“Debris provides a habitat for diseases and insects. Tilling it into the soil disrupts the habitat and prevents pests from overwintering and wreaking havoc on next year’s crops,” she said.&nbsp;When adding organic matter into the soil, Domenghini suggests following the general rule of incorporating two inches of organic matter to the surface and tilling it in. Leaves and garden waste can be mowed first to cut it into smaller pieces that will break down more quickly.&nbsp;&nbsp;“Well-tilled soil should have pellet-sized particles. Use caution not to over till the soil and turn it into dust,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to&nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

K-State horticulture expert says tilling the garden in the fall can protect the soil structure

By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Extension Agent, Central Kansas District

With more and more people interested in growing their own vegetables it is common to find that many gardeners in cities have only a little backyard space to utilize and thus a raised bed is called for.&nbsp; Growing in raised beds gets the attention of gardeners not only for space saving reasons, there are actually many other advantages to this type of gardening.

Raised bed gardens offer several advantages over conventional gardening plots. Soil raised above ground level warms up more quickly&nbsp;in the spring, which allows for earlier planting dates. The beds are ﬁlled with&nbsp;high-quality soil mixtures which improves drainage and increases yield.&nbsp;Raised beds are smaller than traditional gardens making them&nbsp;easier to maintain&nbsp;and denser plantings help reduce weed infestations.

Getting started with raised bed gardening isn’t difficult.&nbsp; There are many styles of raised beds that can be easily created.&nbsp; Wood is most commonly used, but cinder blocks, landscape timbers, rock, bricks and many other materials can work just fine.

Treated lumber used to contain arsenic and chromium which was considered unsafe in food gardens, but now most lumber is treated with the wood preservative ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary) which is generally considered safe to use for raised bed gardening.&nbsp; If you are uncertain about the safety of treated lumber, place a heavy plastic liner between the treated lumber and the soil used for growing plants to prevent direct contact of plant roots with the treated lumber.&nbsp; Another option is to use a naturally rot resistant wood such as cedar.

Raised bed don’t even have to have a frame at all.&nbsp;You can build unframed (mounded) raised beds by tilling the existing garden soil 6 to 9 inches deep. Then add 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to the raised bed row and till it into the soil. This will have the effect of raising that area above the surrounding soil. Add soil and organic matter as needed to create mounded beds that are 8 to 12 inches above the surrounding soil and 3 to 4 feet wide. Walkways between unframed raised beds should be wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow. Spread a layer of mulch such as bark or straw over the walkways to reduce weed growth and mud problems.

Another option that is becoming more popular are galvanized steel raised bed gardening kits.&nbsp; These are easy to put together and strong and make an excellent choice for home gardeners.&nbsp; They come in many different shapes and sizes.

Dimensions of raised beds can vary according to the site.&nbsp;&nbsp;Common dimensions include 4×4, 4×8, or 4×10 sized beds.&nbsp;&nbsp;The 4-foot width or a little narrower is preferred&nbsp;because it allows for an easy reach into the bed from either side to tend the plants. This keeps soil compaction from occurring because the garden soil is not walked on.

The depth of a raised bed is important.&nbsp; Regardless of the material used to build the bed there needs to be enough soil depth to accommodate the type of plants to be grown.&nbsp; For most vegetables a soil depth of 12 inches is generally sufficient but 15 to 18 inches is even better.&nbsp; If bending or stooping is a problem for the gardener, a deeper bed can be built that allows for gardening in the standing position.

Raised beds can be made wheelchair accessible by making the walls about 2 feet tall and limiting the width of the bed to about 3 feet.

The biggest advantage of raised bed gardening is the opportunity to mix and amend your own soil. Most often a 50/50 mix of good quality topsoil and organic matter such as peat moss, compost, or composted manure creates a wonderful growing media that drains well and is easy to work in. Another popular raised bed mix includes 1/3 top soil, 1/3 compost, and 1/3 drainage increasing material such as perlite, vermiculite, bark, or coarse sand.

As with any garden site, the bed should be located in full sun for best production.&nbsp; The best location also provides wind protection. Summer winds can take their toll on vegetable crops. A tree, shrub screen or border will work if it is on the south or southwest side to protect the garden.&nbsp; If possible, raised beds should be also located where there is easy access to a water source.&nbsp; Raised beds can tend to dry out more quickly than traditional gardens and should be monitored for moisture needs regularly.&nbsp;&nbsp;A drip system is an efficient and easy way to provide irrigation to raised beds.

If you haven’t tried raised bed gardening, now is a great time to get started.&nbsp; This gardening method provides great success and is a flexible way to plant, grow, and harvest your own homegrown produce.&nbsp; Check out the Raised Bed Gardening publication below for more information.

<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf2134.pdf">Raised Bed Gardening</a> (pdf)

Another publication that gardeners may also want to refer to is the Vegetable Garden Planting Guide. This guide has all the basic information for planting garden crops in Kansas.

<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf315.pdf">Vegetable Garden Planting Guide</a> (pdf)

Jason Graves'&nbsp;Central Kansas Lawn &amp; Garden&nbsp;blog is republished on Salina Post with permission. For more lawn and garden information, visit the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">Central Kansas District Extension website</a>.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681651294589.png" alt="Photos courtesy Jason Graves" />
 <figcaption>Photos courtesy Jason Graves</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Extension Agent, Central Kansas DistrictWith more and more people interested in growing their own vegetables it is common to find that many gardeners in cities have only a little backyard space to utilize and thus a raised bed is called for.&nbsp; Growing in raised beds gets the attention of gardeners not only for space saving reasons, there are actually many other advantages to this type of gardening.<h2>Advantages</h2>Raised bed gardens offer several advantages over conventional gardening plots. Soil raised above ground level warms up more quickly&nbsp;in the spring, which allows for earlier planting dates. The beds are ﬁlled with&nbsp;high-quality soil mixtures which improves drainage and increases yield.&nbsp;Raised beds are smaller than traditional gardens making them&nbsp;easier to maintain&nbsp;and denser plantings help reduce weed infestations.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681651418325.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Getting started</h2>Getting started with raised bed gardening isn’t difficult.&nbsp; There are many styles of raised beds that can be easily created.&nbsp; Wood is most commonly used, but cinder blocks, landscape timbers, rock, bricks and many other materials can work just fine.Treated lumber used to contain arsenic and chromium which was considered unsafe in food gardens, but now most lumber is treated with the wood preservative ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary) which is generally considered safe to use for raised bed gardening.&nbsp; If you are uncertain about the safety of treated lumber, place a heavy plastic liner between the treated lumber and the soil used for growing plants to prevent direct contact of plant roots with the treated lumber.&nbsp; Another option is to use a naturally rot resistant wood such as cedar.Raised bed don’t even have to have a frame at all.&nbsp;You can build unframed (mounded) raised beds by tilling the existing garden soil 6 to 9 inches deep. Then add 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to the raised bed row and till it into the soil. This will have the effect of raising that area above the surrounding soil. Add soil and organic matter as needed to create mounded beds that are 8 to 12 inches above the surrounding soil and 3 to 4 feet wide. Walkways between unframed raised beds should be wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow. Spread a layer of mulch such as bark or straw over the walkways to reduce weed growth and mud problems.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681651547224.png" alt="This garden contains both framed (galvanized steel) and unframed raised beds. Mulch is applied between the unframed raised beds rows to make a nice walking path." />
 <figcaption>This garden contains both framed (galvanized steel) and unframed raised beds. Mulch is applied between the unframed raised beds rows to make a nice walking path.</figcaption>
 </figure>Another option that is becoming more popular are galvanized steel raised bed gardening kits.&nbsp; These are easy to put together and strong and make an excellent choice for home gardeners.&nbsp; They come in many different shapes and sizes.Dimensions of raised beds can vary according to the site.&nbsp;&nbsp;Common dimensions include 4×4, 4×8, or 4×10 sized beds.&nbsp;&nbsp;The 4-foot width or a little narrower is preferred&nbsp;because it allows for an easy reach into the bed from either side to tend the plants. This keeps soil compaction from occurring because the garden soil is not walked on.The depth of a raised bed is important.&nbsp; Regardless of the material used to build the bed there needs to be enough soil depth to accommodate the type of plants to be grown.&nbsp; For most vegetables a soil depth of 12 inches is generally sufficient but 15 to 18 inches is even better.&nbsp; If bending or stooping is a problem for the gardener, a deeper bed can be built that allows for gardening in the standing position.Raised beds can be made wheelchair accessible by making the walls about 2 feet tall and limiting the width of the bed to about 3 feet.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681651750605.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Soil Mix</h2>The biggest advantage of raised bed gardening is the opportunity to mix and amend your own soil. Most often a 50/50 mix of good quality topsoil and organic matter such as peat moss, compost, or composted manure creates a wonderful growing media that drains well and is easy to work in. Another popular raised bed mix includes 1/3 top soil, 1/3 compost, and 1/3 drainage increasing material such as perlite, vermiculite, bark, or coarse sand.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/4/1681651918922.png" alt="Drip irrigation is a very efficient way to keep raised bed gardens growing to their potential." />
 <figcaption>Drip irrigation is a very efficient way to keep raised bed gardens growing to their potential.</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Location</h2>As with any garden site, the bed should be located in full sun for best production.&nbsp; The best location also provides wind protection. Summer winds can take their toll on vegetable crops. A tree, shrub screen or border will work if it is on the south or southwest side to protect the garden.&nbsp; If possible, raised beds should be also located where there is easy access to a water source.&nbsp; Raised beds can tend to dry out more quickly than traditional gardens and should be monitored for moisture needs regularly.&nbsp;&nbsp;A drip system is an efficient and easy way to provide irrigation to raised beds.If you haven’t tried raised bed gardening, now is a great time to get started.&nbsp; This gardening method provides great success and is a flexible way to plant, grow, and harvest your own homegrown produce.&nbsp; Check out the Raised Bed Gardening publication below for more information.<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf2134.pdf">Raised Bed Gardening</a> (pdf)<h2>Vegetable Garden Planting Guide</h2>Another publication that gardeners may also want to refer to is the Vegetable Garden Planting Guide. This guide has all the basic information for planting garden crops in Kansas.<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf315.pdf">Vegetable Garden Planting Guide</a> (pdf)Jason Graves'&nbsp;Central Kansas Lawn &amp; Garden&nbsp;blog is republished on Salina Post with permission. For more lawn and garden information, visit the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">Central Kansas District Extension website</a>.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;

CENTRAL KANSAS L&G: Raised bed gardening is great way to grow

By MADDY ROHR K-State Research and Extension News Service&nbsp;

MANHATTAN —Kansas State University horticulture instructor Cynthia Domenghini says home gardeners can expand garden space by taking it to the next level…literally.&nbsp;

Domenghini said many crops can be grown vertically, including the more traditional tomatoes, pole beans, and peas as well as vining crops such as cucumbers, melons, squash and gourds.&nbsp;

“Elevating plants off the ground increases the air flow which can help prevent disease,” Domenghini said. “Bringing the height of the produce up also makes harvesting easier.”&nbsp;

Domenghini recommends edible-pod and snow peas because those crops have longer vines and are therefore more appropriate for growing vertically than English (shelling) peas.&nbsp;

Bush-type vining crops produce short vines and are consequently less suitable for vertical growth. 

“Be mindful of crops that grow large fruit as they could damage the vine if grown vertically,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;

Supporting your vertical garden with a study structure is also important. Domenghini suggests bamboo poles. &nbsp;

“Create a pup tent or A-frame structure by leaning two cattle panels or pallets together and securing them at the top. Alternatively, a single panel can be tied upright to T-posts for support. Plant vining crops at the base and train them to grow upward,” she said.&nbsp;

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to &nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu,&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

By MADDY ROHR K-State Research and Extension News Service&nbsp;MANHATTAN —Kansas State University horticulture instructor Cynthia Domenghini says home gardeners can expand garden space by taking it to the next level…literally.&nbsp;Domenghini said many crops can be grown vertically, including the more traditional tomatoes, pole beans, and peas as well as vining crops such as cucumbers, melons, squash and gourds.&nbsp;“Elevating plants off the ground increases the air flow which can help prevent disease,” Domenghini said. “Bringing the height of the produce up also makes harvesting easier.”&nbsp;Domenghini recommends edible-pod and snow peas because those crops have longer vines and are therefore more appropriate for growing vertically than English (shelling) peas.&nbsp;Bush-type vining crops produce short vines and are consequently less suitable for vertical growth. “Be mindful of crops that grow large fruit as they could damage the vine if grown vertically,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;Supporting your vertical garden with a study structure is also important. Domenghini suggests bamboo poles. &nbsp;“Create a pup tent or A-frame structure by leaning two cattle panels or pallets together and securing them at the top. Alternatively, a single panel can be tied upright to T-posts for support. Plant vining crops at the base and train them to grow upward,” she said.&nbsp;Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to &nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu,&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.